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Climbing On The West Coast Of Sweden in Bosuland

The West Coast of Sweden has some fine granite crags, formed by glaciers on the way to the sea. Most crags face west and catch the sun. The climbing is mainly up cracks so jamming is essential!

Swedes grade their climbs a little differently to the UK.

This is a typical West Coast crag, perfect granite.

Another view of this stunning crag.

Unfortunately most of the routes up here are hard, in the 7 and 8`s. But there are a couple of reasonably
graded 2 pitch routes. Up the far right is a 2 pitch 5, and a third of the way in is a 6.

This is looking up at the 6 (a hard 6!). The route follows the crack line to the left of the roof.

This is another spectacular crag, home of many hard routes. Note the wall in the shadow on the right.
The following pictures show a route up this wall.

Looking up at a 45 metre long 6-. The route follows a crack line then goes left under the flake and then
right over the top.

An unknown climber just under the roof of the flake.

Charles making his way up the crack.

Charles contemplating the tricky move under the flake.

More gear going in.

Look No Hands !!

The crag has many other hard routes. There is one somewhere up here! We also climbed a very nice
but tough 2 pitch 5.

Yet another perfect piece of rock! Note the 2 guys stood top right. Svaneberget

The crack curving upto the left is a 6- (centre of picture). Now you will probably see the two guys! Svaneberget

This was one of the easiest routes on the wall. 5- A nice crack at a pleasent angle. The start was the hardest! Svaneberget

This is Nordens Arc. Another fine crag with lots of slab routes in the lower grades. Most follow
prominent cracks.

This is yet another crag. A fine route follows the flake that trends right. Another goes through the over hang. Avja.

This is another crag (theres masses of them!) A 5 follows the crack that trends right. I lead this.
A 6 goes up the arete. Lilla Vagen

A view up the arete. Lilla Vagen

Another crag! Most routes on here are 6- to 7- and 35 metres long.

This is the same crag and it goes down to the sea!

This is my first 6- (F6a, 5.10b, E1) lead. The first 5 metres of the lower crack is the crux. The rest
is just nice climbing with reasonable holds and gear. I ran out of quickdraws at the top!

A close up of the start. Another 6- (which I also lead) follows the flake on the left. This again had some small
hard run out moves above the flake on the way up to the roof. (E2?? UK grade)

Another fine 6- on this crag follows the crack, through the roof and to the top.

The roof on the 6-. We took the right hand crack. Charles jammed up, I layed back off it.
Fantastic position and exposure.